Ganpatipule Beach and Goa Road Trip

                Konkan! The pride of Maharashtra comprises the complete stretch along the coast of the state till Goa. A very unique culture and even more beautiful Western Ghats parallel to the coastline add to the beauty and scenic thrill. The entire coastal line never fails to thrill the travel aficionado irrespective of the season. Comprising of beaches and ghats, it provides the perfect destination for the water baby as well as the trek enthusiast.  The coastal highway isn’t one to be missed upon.

         The trip to wander the konkan side was decided late Friday afternoon on 05-Oct-12. My cousin, Shankar who is down for couple of months wanted to get away from the city for the weekend. Considering his request and me having leave on 06-Oct-12, decided to head to ‘Ganpatipule beach’ in ‘Ratnagiri’ district of Maharashtra. Catching an ST bus (State Transport bus) on the night of 05-Oct-12 from Chembur was the only option. This proved a boon which saved up on time considering the distance to be covered overnight.

        Located at approximately 350kms, a semi luxury ST bus is more than one could ask for. Their best bus, a semi luxury bus was a non air-conditioned one, but with cushioned seats and priced marginally higher than the ordinary bus that ply. The bus wasn’t in that great a condition, but decent enough to travel. Tickets were available online, but I didn’t take that risk since I could only leave work by around 8PM on 05-Oct-12. Wrapping up my work, quickly rushed home to pack my stuff within half an hour and reached the ST bus stand by 10.00PM. The enquiry counter was unoccupied with the fan and electricity being wasted. This was pretty irritating considering the power shortage currently faced in the state. Enquiry wasn’t an option due to personnel’s unavailability. We enquired every ST bus stopping at the stand. After a brief wait of 15mins, we finally got our bus and the fare was Rs. 920.00 for two people. The fare was a little too steep primarily because the bus was of semi luxury nature. The fare is cheaper for an ordinary one, though wouldn’t be comfortable to travel long distance.

               

               Though the seats are cushioned, but not well maintained, all seats aren’t retractable and you could sometimes find yourself sitting in an uncomfortable seat. The peak season for Ganpatipule had just passed; hence very few people boarded the bus. The bus journey was very comfortable through the night without any incidents. The bus driver and conductor wanted a tea break early morning at around 7AM and since my cousin and I were the only bus travelers, we readily agreed for the same. A tea break at ‘Jakadevi’; on enquiry found out that it was the biggest ‘Taluka’ of that region. The drive from Jakadevi to Ganpatipule was pleasant and scenic. 

                 With the rains still imminent, the greenery was in full bloom with lots of palm trees dotting the horizon. We reached Ganpatipule at 8AM. We got a half day hotel stay deal with ‘Krishna Sea View’ resort. This means that you check-in at 9AM and check-out by 5PM, that very same day. It was a very good deal provided our plan was to reach ‘Sawantwadi’ by nightfall. One of the ‘Ashtavinayak’ temple of Lord Ganpati and Ganpatipule beach was just 10 mins from our hotel. A beautiful and well maintained temple, I must add. Hitting the beach, all the rumours about one of the best beaches in Konkan region proved true. Crystal clear water lapping onto our feet with the sun kissing our backs was blissful. Moving away from where the crowds were, we reached a spot which was quite far from the picnic noise one would normally encounter at various tourist spots. 

               We tried to catch up with a fisherman moving swiftly along the shore wanting to catch some fish and crabs. We came to a lagoon with clear water linking the sea water in between. The stark contrast of the lagoon’s fresh water inspite of mixing with the sea water struck us. A swim with mild under water currents was a chance we didn’t want to miss upon. Spending couple of hours here trying to swim against the current was fun. Beautifully maintained beach, but for parts littered with plastic waste. It just annoys me to find out that the place isn’t respected enough for what it provides to one. A sumptuous lunch at ‘Tarang’ hotel at MTDC (Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation) and we headed back to the hotel for some rest.

 

   Out of the various sights of that region, one that proved kind of enticing was a visit to ‘Jaigad Fort’. Located at a distance of 20kms from Ganpatipule, it offers a panoramic view of the region. Contemplating our next move, we decided on going to the fort for a quick tour and then headed straight to ‘Ratnagiri’ railway station to either catch a train or bus to head down south.’ Jaigad fort’ wasn’t a fort of much importance, but just known for the views offered by it. Reaching the fort at 4PM, it was a complete disappointment; trees and grass completely outgrown; kids playing cricket and cattle grazing. This was apparently a tourist spot and shocking at the manner of promoting the same. The panoramic view was fabulous. If only, they could maintain the fort, could that also be included for tourism with pride than just a mere request to the tourists. 

  By 5PM, we headed back to the resort in order to leave for Ratnagiri station on time. The scenic views offered by the State highway SH-106 were mindblowing, especially with the sun setting down that evening. We found out that there were no buses available for Sawantwadi at 7PM and the last train was ‘Netravati Express’ reaching Ratnagiri station at 7.30PM leaving Mumbai that very morning at 11.30AM. 

 

  Our hopes were dashed when we learnt that the train doesn’t stop at Sawantwadi railway station, but its next stop was ‘Kudal’. Kudal though located in Sawantwadi district is a good 43kms away from ‘Tarkarli’ beach and with no bus available beyond 7.30PM in the konkan region, we would be at the mercy of the rickshaw guy who would definitely charge us a steep fare in order to reach our destination.

 A quick discussion and we bought 2 rail tickets to ‘Thivim’; the station that is closest to beaches in North Goa. Surprised as one could be, we were as well. Saturday night, 06-Oct-12, we were actually in Goa! We headed to Baga beach and though it isn’t the peak season, the influx of tourists hasn’t dwindled. Beach shacks aren’t a feature of Goan beaches just yet, but it hasn’t deterred the tourists. A not so expensive room was taken for couple of night’s right opposite the ‘Tito-Baga’ beach lane. Goa was in party mode until 4AM. Critics would always have a say, but the bottom line is that the party destination never skips a beat when it comes to having a good time. I wouldn’t dare lie saying that we slept early. We actually came back to our rooms only at 6AM. The last 2 hours, we spent in the quietness of the beach by a bonfire. Kids working as helpers in various restaurants who hadn’t completed education gave us company. Felt at peace to be away from the panic street of Baga beach.  An extended sleep and a good breakfast on Sunday morning at ‘Nisha Bar and Restaurant’ shouldn’t go unmentioned. Very few places were open for breakfast. A Goan home turned restaurant with sumptuous goan delicacies.

  I had to be back in Mumbai for work on Monday and headed towards ‘Mapusa’ to book my bus ticket for Sunday evening which would reach the city by early Monday morning. Underestimating the rush, it came as a surprise when none of the air conditioned bus tickets were available. Ultimately, I settled for a sleeper non air conditioned bus leaving Mapusa at 7.30PM and reaching Mumbai at 8AM on 08-Oct-12. My cousin, though was on vacation and extended his stay in Goa for an extra day and headed down south towards the beautiful beaches of ‘Karwar’ and ‘Gokarna’, Karnataka.

 Weekend well spent and worth a mention. We could not cover ‘Tarkarli’ beach, but no regrets whatsoever. This is considering the places covered by the modes of travel used and with the amount of time on hand. The budget wasn’t steep, but could have kept it to a minimum with better time management. Wouldn’t suggest ‘Jaigad fort’ as a must visit to anyone unless they spruce up the spot with a view on cashing on tourism. Not worth the effort for the time and cost. A must visit to Ganpatipule beach. Another place struck off my bucket list.

Costing:

·         Bus ticket from Mumbai To Ganpatipule beach- Rs. 450

·         Half day hotel deal at Ganpatipule- Rs. 400

·         Hired car to Jaigad fort and back (40kms)- Rs. 1300

·         Rail ticket from Ratnagiri station to Thivim, Goa- Rs. 200

·         Cab from railway station to Baga beach- Rs. 650 (Rs. 150 was night fare due to our train running late)

·         Hotel stay at Baga- Rs. 700 per night

·         Bus fare from Goa to Mumbai sleeper bus- Rs. 500

Kaas valley of flowers, Satara, Maharashtra

                Valley of Flowers and one would easily relate it to Uttaranchal’s Valley of Flowers. Famous as one would know, it has formed its own niche value amongst the seasoned trekkers for India’s very own natural botanical display. Maharashtra had a secret which until six years ago wasn’t discovered, whereby a group of scientists and doctors passing through this region in Satara stumbled upon this plateau/ valley comprising of various types of plants of which numerous were endangered ones. 

 

                Upon discovery and prospective lab testing, they realized these plants did have medicinal capabilities. Located on a plateau on top of a cliff, half an hour drive from ‘Satara’ city, the flowers on this plateau blooms only during the months of July-October. Spread over an area of 5 sq. kms, this phenomenon is a botanical display of colour and life. A trip to ‘Kaas’ was impending from my side for last couple of years and this year proved lucky when a road trip to Kaas was planned between my friends and myself for 15^th-16^th September, 2012. 

                 Though, the road trip planned was for the weekend in entirety, we couldn’t leave Mumbai until 6.00 PM as one of my friends was busy in his company get together. Krishna and Vignesh both of whom reside in Chembur met me and accordingly we left towards Satara. Located at a distance of 360kms from Mumbai, it wasn’t a difficult route considering we cover the entire Mumbai-Pune expressway and continue forward towards Satara for a further 130kms. Night driving was always going to be tricky, but Krishna held his nerve through the ghats with a little accelerated, but controlled driving. We reached Satara city at 11.30PM and immediately checked into ‘Maharaja Residency’ hotel which is located at the city centre. The road trip was a welcome change especially one which was after more than 3 years for the three of us together. With minimal stops for refreshments, it was a peaceful drive with moderate rainfall in between. The hotel that we stayed for the night wasn’t that great, but was the best the city could offer.

It's very misty!!

                 Having a 4 hour nap wasn’t the best way to feel rejuvenated, but again, the need to reach Kaas as early as possible was our topmost priority. One reason was to escape the crowds that would start streaming in as the day wore on and secondly for the pleasant weather. Checking out of the hotel at 7.30AM, we proceeded for a pleasant drive up the mountains towards the plateau. Completely scenic, it was difficult to keep our eyes on the road. Just before the plateau, there is Rs.10.00 entry fee charged by the forest officials of Satara. 

This has been started primarily because Kaas got the world heritage status by UNESCO this year in 2012. Actually, 39 spots on the western ghats got the world heritage status out of which Kaas plateau was one of them. With more publicity year on year, the number of tourists isn’t going to dwindle. The UNESCO world heritage status is an added feather in the cap. The number of tourists to Kaas has increased more over the last couple of years. Initially, people used to drive up their cars right onto the flower beds in a bid to take that one ‘classic’ picture or 2 cent video for their family. What they did was just destroy the delicate flower beds in the process for their satisfaction. The need to preserve a sensitive place should come from within oneself. And with this global heritage recognition, the influx of tourists is not going to reduce, but just explode. But, things now have changed with barricades along the full driveway protecting the flowers not only from vehicles, but also from human influx. You are allowed access to certain areas with precaution, but the decision to barricade is a really good one.

 

 

                Completely misty amongst the clouds, it was really difficult to maneuver the car, but found a nice parking spot close to one section of Kaas lake not frequented by tourists. The weather was pleasant till the moment we stepped out of the car. A sudden whiff of cold breeze and slight drizzle welcomed us. The spot was an amazing one being at ground zero of the lake. It was quite windy and cloudy, seemed straight out of a scene picturing one in the midst of the Bermuda Triangle. 

 A visit to a secluded waterfall and it was time to head back to the plateau for a clearer view of the flowers. This time, we weren’t disappointed. A sudden clearance of the clouds and the valley displayed its true colour and vibrancy. 

Vignesh chilling

Krishna in form

The moment was astounding and spectacular. A wide array of flowers draped in purple. With patches of yellow, violet, white, red and blue flowers gradually starting to bloom in certain parts, it was a sight to just cherish. These flowers will bloom within the next couple of weeks and would take over the colour of the valley in entirety. Villagers were posted all over during the daytime to handle the traffic of vehicles as well as to take care to guard the flower beds. One such villager whom we bumped into, took us on a personalized tour explaining the various types of flowers; the most famous one being “Sita’s Tears”. This has no significance to the mythological tale of “Ramayan”. The best time to visit is normally July to October with the receding rains. The remaining 8 months of the year, the plateau is barren with the initial part of the monsoon season turning it into a lush green field.

Sita's Tears!

                Amongst such talk, we came to hear that the villagers living at Kaas village always knew about these flowers, but never knew of their significance and the place grew in popularity during the last couple of years only. Villagers from Kaas village were employed by the Satara forest department to keep guard all day amidst such windy and rainy weather. A gruesome job, but a job nevertheless. Another very surprising fact is that the population of Kaas village is a mere 25-30 people! One should not miss out on the opportunity to view the 'Koyna Dam'; a human marvel from the top of plateau.

Koyna Dam on extreme right

                

                   Finishing our walk across the plateau and bidding goodbye to the villager, we made our way back to Satara city at 12.45PM. Quite hungry, we bid adieu to the valley with a heavy heart. Next up was hunting down a restaurant “Manali Hotel” listed down by Nat Geo Traveller. We were thrown off track with poor directional skills by the villagers and we landed at a restaurant named “Radhika Palace”, a decent one serving authentic lip smacking Gujarati Thali. The food was very delicious and we were contemplating our luck on how we landed at that restaurant in the first place. My recommendation would be to not to miss out having food at this place. Leaving Satara city at 2.45 PM, we reached Mumbai city in record time at 7.30PM. Having your personal car is an ultimate boon for the time constraint and the distance to be covered. Going by public transport isn’t recommended, though possible. 

 

                An amazing venue for a weekend getaway and one to savour. A must do for every traveler. A visit to this place should be right on top of one’s bucket list. Given an opportunity, I would definitely go back for another weekend to witness the array of colours. The costing was primarily hotel stay cost, fuel for car and toll cost for the highway. Food and refreshment cost is separate and would approximately be Rs. 400.00 per head. Hotel cost was Rs. 1000/- per head, toll cost was Rs. 100-150/- per head approximately, fuel cost for car being Rs. 500/- per head. Leave no traces and savour what the nature has to provide.

 

Jude and Sherlynn colourful

Clive stunned by the natural beauty!

Sanjay Gandhi National Park Trek, Mumbai

                Mumbai!! Concrete jungle for the quite many associated with this city. Fast paced lifestyle, minute-to-minute connotations of the daily bread earner. In the midst of this mayhem, one just cannot accept the city as a destination for de-stressing oneself over a weekend. City which will make one eat one’s own words when it comes to optimism over pessimism. Amongst all this, there is one place that will make you forget it all. Place that requires not much travelling, but will still captivate you with hope. 

                ‘Sanjay Gandhi National Park’ formerly or more famously known as ‘Borivali National Park’ due to its proximity to the area of Borivali in Mumbai, is one such place. Spread over an area of 40 sq. meters (104 sq. kms), is a place dedicated to the nurturing of various fauna, house to the famed Asiatic Lions and the Leopards. A small hike/ trek was planned by my friends on July 22^nd, 2012. Since the venue was within the city, it was an easy one to plan.

                                An early morning wake up call at 5.00 AM for me since I live in ‘Chembur’ as compared to two of my friends; Clive and Kristopher who live in ‘Malad’ and ‘Borivali’. A direct bus from ‘Sion’ 448 Ltd. dropped me right in front of the national park gate at 8.15 AM. Couple of bottles of water and food for lunch was purchased just opposite the park gate from a restaurant. An entry fee of Rs. 25/- per bike and an entry fee of Rs. 30/- per person was charged. Proceeding inside, we could notice the complete transformation of the venue. Bustling with people who came down for morning walks to families wanting to spend their day and kids hooked onto the toy train ride towards the lion’s enclosure. Our plan was fixed to ride straight towards ‘Kanheri caves’; caves built in the 13^th century which is one of the archaeological sites still preserved intact with a view on promoting tourism. 

Parking our bikes at the base of the caves with a minimal entry fee of Rs. 5/- for entering the caves section and we were on our way. Proceeding towards the caves, one could not help but notice the hullaballoo and noise created by families. Proceeding to our left, we took a dilapidated bridge to cross over to the other section not frequented by the tourists. Ascending the cliff, we were quite a distance away from the tourists to venture out into the valley and find out the secluded waterfall that Kris had been to earlier. For me, it was reminiscence of visiting the national park after more than two decades. Moving forward, came across lots of weird shaped and coloured mushrooms. 

A good trek of 40 minutes and the waterfall as secluded as was in glory. The rains this monsoon weren’t that great for the waterfall, but decent enough for a dip. The rain gods finally decided to open up and heavy drizzle with a not so frequented waterfall was apt. It was peaceful to be amongst nature with nothing to disturb our thoughts. A bird watcher’s paradise. Not my cup of tea at all.

Time moved swiftly with discussions on future treks/ trips planned. We decided to move downwards from the waterfall instead of retreating the way we took to reach the waterfall spot. We reached a place wherein there was a massive jump required into a water hole of 10-15 feet and no side paths visible to move ahead. Situated at a lower height, but similar to the jump from ‘127 hours’ movie. Contemplating, we finally decided to venture back towards the same route that we had taken earlier. At 2.30PM we decided to make a push towards the bikes and to finish this wonderful Sunday well spent. We reached the main gate at 3.30PM and I caught the return bus back home.

Cost per person was tentatively Rs. 250.00 per head considering the food, water and entry ticket cost. Very minimal and a Sunday well spent!

Part Two of our trek in national park was done on August 15^th, 2012.

August 15^th, 2012, 66^th Independence Day festivities in full swing in our country and also Kris’ birthday. A birthday trek again by just the three of us to national park. Since, it was the country’s Independence Day, Entry cost was exempted for all. The only cost being the entry to the caves which was Rs. 5/- we reached the national park gate at 1.00 PM this time around. We decided to park our bikes next to a stream and trek upwards towards the valley to reach the waterfall that we had been to in the previous trek.

Moving rightwards alongside the stream, it was weary trek for the many obstacles that were placed signaling the trekkers not to utilize this route. After a good 45 minute trek, we reached a point where in the water was misty and quite deep. Clive decided to check out the left side of the stream for any possible route to move forward. At that moment, I froze for what I saw will always be exhilarating and scary. Five feet ahead from where I stood, a 6 foot snake lay across on this massive boulder. Hearing our footsteps, it awoke and slid into the water. Shouting out to Clive to stop and retreat who couldn’t understand the excitement in our voices. The snake’s head bobbled out of the water for a second and retreated into the water. None of us were much into studying snakes, so knowing the breed of the snake was a difficult task especially in such a confused moment. 

 There was no chance of entering the water now nor could we bypass it. Standing there, contemplating, the skies finally opened up. Heavy rain and all we did for the next 5 minutes was look for movement in the water. Sensing none, we decided to venture back the same route. Keeping our eyes peeled with heavy rain was a struggle, but fun. Completely drenched, we took shelter in an abandoned shelter house to gather our thoughts and to munch on some food treated by Kris. After a brief rest of 30 minutes, we went back to the spot where we had parked our bikes and rode towards the caves. A brief rest on top of the cliff and we decided to return back to the gate at 6.00PM.

Awesome experience again, but pity, we couldn’t reach the target of tracking our way to the waterfall. I just hope that the national park throws in a surprise each time one visits for these are completely unscripted.